How to read and compare tire sizes
Short answer
A size like 225/60R16 means a 225 mm wide tire whose sidewall is 60 percent of that width, on a 16-inch wheel. Overall diameter in inches is (2 x width x aspect ratio / 100 / 25.4) + rim diameter, so 225/60R16 is 26.63 inches tall. Compare two sizes by their diameters: moving from 215/65R16 (27.00 in) to 225/60R17 (27.63 in) is a 2.32 percent increase, so when the speedometer reads 60 mph you are really doing about 61.4. Plus-sizing works by lowering the aspect ratio as the rim grows so the overall diameter stays close to stock. Load index and speed rating should match or exceed what the manufacturer specified.
Overall tire diameter and speedometer formulas
Sidewall (mm) = width (mm) x aspect ratio / 100. Overall diameter (in) = (2 x sidewall / 25.4) + rim diameter (in). Diameter change (%) = (new diameter - old diameter) / old diameter x 100. True speed = displayed speed x (new diameter / old diameter).
- •width: the first number in the size, in millimeters, such as 225
- •aspect ratio: the second number, the sidewall height as a percentage of the width, such as 60
- •rim diameter: the number after R, in inches, such as 16
- •25.4: millimeters per inch, which converts the sidewall from millimeters to inches
- •2 x sidewall: the tire has a sidewall above and below the wheel, so it counts twice
- •true speed: your actual speed when the speedometer, still calibrated to the old size, shows the displayed speed
What the numbers on the sidewall mean
Take a common size, P225/60R16. Read from left to right and each piece answers a different question. The P marks a passenger-vehicle tire; LT marks a light-truck tire, and a size with no leading letter is a metric size. The 225 is the tread width in millimeters. The 60 is the aspect ratio, meaning the sidewall height is 60 percent of the width. The R means radial construction. The 16 is the diameter of the wheel the tire fits, in inches.
Notice the unit mix: width and sidewall in millimeters, rim in inches. That mix is the reason the diameter formula needs a conversion, and it is where most hand calculations go wrong. NHTSA's TireWise guidance adds that an aspect ratio of 50 or lower indicates a short sidewall, which improves steering response and handling.
After the size you will often see a two- or three-digit number followed by a letter, such as 98H. That is the load index and speed rating, covered below.
The overall diameter math
A tire's overall diameter is the wheel plus a sidewall on each side. Start with the sidewall height in millimeters: width x aspect ratio / 100. Convert to inches by dividing by 25.4. Double it, since there is sidewall above and below the wheel, and add the rim diameter.
Worked example, 225/60R16. Sidewall = 225 x 60 / 100 = 135 mm, which is 5.31 inches. Overall diameter = (2 x 135 / 25.4) + 16 = 10.63 + 16 = 26.63 inches. That is the same arithmetic the Tire Size Calculator uses.
Second example, 215/65R16. Sidewall = 215 x 65 / 100 = 139.75 mm. Overall diameter = (2 x 139.75 / 25.4) + 16 = 27.00 inches. Circumference is diameter x pi, which is 84.84 inches, so this tire turns about 63,360 / 84.84 = 746.9 revolutions per mile (63,360 is the number of inches in a mile).
Notice what drives the result: the rim diameter is fixed, so every change in the overall diameter comes from the sidewall, and the sidewall depends on both width and aspect ratio. A wider tire at the same aspect ratio is also a taller tire.
Comparing two sizes and the speedometer error
To compare, find both diameters and take the percentage change: (new - old) / old x 100. Your speedometer and odometer count wheel rotations and assume the original tire's circumference. A larger tire travels farther per rotation, so the dash under-reports. The true speed is the displayed speed multiplied by new diameter over old diameter.
Worked example: stock 215/65R16 (27.00 in) to 225/60R17 (27.63 in). The change is (27.63 - 27.00) / 27.00 = 2.32 percent. When the speedometer shows 60 mph you are actually going 60 x 27.63 / 27.00 = 61.4 mph, and at 70 it is about 71.6. The odometer drifts the same way: after the display shows 10,000 miles you have really driven about 10,232.
The engine side moves the other way. The new tire needs about 729.9 revolutions per mile instead of 746.9, so at the same road speed the drivetrain turns about 2.3 percent slower. That subtly changes effective gearing, which is why a large diameter change can alter how a car feels and can nudge fuel economy.
The larger tire is also only taller by half the diameter change on the ground side. A 0.63 inch gain in diameter is about 0.31 inch of extra radius, which matters for wheel-well clearance and ground clearance. Anti-lock brakes, traction control, and stability control are also calibrated around the original tire's rotation, so a large mismatch can affect them as well as the speedometer.
Plus-sizing: bigger wheel, same overall diameter
Plus-sizing means fitting a larger-diameter wheel and lowering the aspect ratio so the overall tire diameter barely moves. The aspect ratio has to fall in step with the rim. Start with 225/60R16 (26.63 in) and keep the width at 225:
- Plus one, 225/55R17: sidewall 123.75 mm, diameter 26.74 in, a change of +0.43 percent. At 60 mph on the dash you are doing 60.3.
- Plus two, 225/50R18: diameter 26.86 in, a change of +0.86 percent.
- The wrong way, 225/60R17: keeping the 60 aspect ratio while raising the rim gives 27.63 in, a change of +3.76 percent, with a speedometer reading 60 when you are doing 62.3.
- Exact math: for a 17-inch wheel at width 225, a perfect match would need an aspect ratio of 54.36, so the nearest standard 55 is the right choice.
Where the comparison breaks down
The calculator gives a nominal diameter from the printed numbers. Real tires differ a little: manufacturers build the same size slightly differently, wheel width changes the tire's shape, tread wears down over time, and pressure and load change the rolling radius. Treat the result as a very good estimate and not an exact dimension. For critical fitment, compare the manufacturer's published overall diameter for the specific tire models.
Percent changes also get larger on bigger tires. For a truck, 265/70R17 is 31.61 inches. Widening only to 285/70R17 gives 32.71 inches, a +3.49 percent change, and at a displayed 60 mph you are doing 62.1. Stepping to 285/75R17 reaches 33.83 inches, +7.04 percent, and the same 60 on the dash is really 64.2.
A common rule of thumb, and the one the calculator uses to flag a result, is to stay within about 3 percent of stock. Look at what that rule does to a sport setup: 225/45R17 (24.97 in) to 235/40R18 (25.40 in) is +1.72 percent, but jumping to 245/35R19 (25.75 in) is +3.12 percent, just over the line. Width alone does it too: 225/60R16 to 245/60R16 is +3.55 percent, with 60 on the dash meaning 62.1.
Going smaller deserves equal care. 225/60R16 to 205/60R16 is -3.55 percent, so a displayed 60 mph is really 57.9, and the odometer over-counts. A speedometer reading slow is not a safety win, since the error reverses direction and a low-reading dash can hide speeding.
Finally, the dash may already be off before you change anything, and diameter math cannot detect that. A GPS speed reading is a useful reality check before and after a tire change.
Load index, speed rating, and pressure at a high level
The load index is the number after the size, and it tells you how much weight each tire can carry. It is a code, not the weight itself, so you look it up on a load chart. The speed rating is the letter after it, which corresponds to the top speed the tire is built to sustain. Both are part of what the manufacturer engineered the tire to handle.
The rule for replacement is simple: do not go below the load index and speed rating the vehicle manufacturer specified, which are on the door placard and in the owner's manual. A tire that fits the wheel but has a lower load index can be unsafe on a heavy vehicle. A higher rating than required is generally fine.
Pressure is not on the tire. NHTSA is explicit that the correct pressure is what the vehicle manufacturer lists on the Tire and Loading Information label on the driver's door edge or post, or in the owner's manual, not the maximum pressure printed on the sidewall.
Two more sidewall facts. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading ratings for treadwear, traction, and temperature are printed on passenger tires sold in the US, and they help compare tires. And NHTSA notes that a 10 percent reduction in rolling resistance is estimated to improve vehicle fuel economy by 1 to 2 percent, so tire choice can nudge fuel costs too.
Common mistakes
Most tire-size errors are unit slips or assumptions about which number matters. These are the ones that cost people the most.
- Forgetting that width is millimeters and rim is inches: dividing the sidewall by 25.4 is what puts everything in the same unit.
- Forgetting to double the sidewall: the tire has a sidewall on both the top and bottom of the wheel.
- Raising the rim without lowering the aspect ratio: 225/60R16 to 225/60R17 adds 3.76 percent.
- Assuming only the aspect ratio changes the diameter: width at the same aspect ratio changes sidewall height too.
- Matching diameter and ignoring load index and speed rating: a size that fits can still be under-rated for the vehicle.
- Reading maximum pressure off the sidewall instead of the vehicle's placard.
- Treating a smaller tire as harmless: a tire that is too small causes the same speedometer and system calibration issues in the opposite direction.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I calculate the diameter of a tire from its size?+
Multiply the width in millimeters by the aspect ratio divided by 100 to get the sidewall height in millimeters. Divide by 25.4 for inches, double it, and add the rim diameter. For 225/60R16: 225 x 0.60 = 135 mm, 135 x 2 / 25.4 = 10.63 in, plus 16 gives 26.63 inches.
How much of a diameter difference is acceptable?+
A common rule of thumb is to stay within about 3 percent of the original diameter. That keeps the speedometer error to about 1.8 mph at 60 mph and limits clearance and calibration issues. Check your owner's manual or a tire professional for what your specific vehicle tolerates, since some cars are less forgiving than others.
If I fit larger tires, does my speedometer read high or low?+
It reads low. The speedometer counts wheel rotations assuming the original circumference, and a larger tire covers more ground per rotation, so your true speed is higher than displayed. With the 215/65R16 to 225/60R17 change, a display of 60 mph means about 61.4 mph actual, and the odometer under-counts miles by about 2.3 percent.
What does plus-sizing mean, and how do I pick the right aspect ratio?+
Plus-sizing means a larger wheel with a lower aspect ratio so the overall diameter stays close to stock. To pick the aspect ratio, use the diameter formula and solve for it, then choose the nearest standard value. For a 225-wide tire replacing 225/60R16 on a 17-inch wheel the exact aspect ratio is 54.36, so 225/55R17 (a +0.43 percent change) is the match.
Can I put a tire with a lower load index on my vehicle?+
Do not go below the load index and speed rating the vehicle manufacturer specified. They are listed on the driver's door placard or in the owner's manual. A tire with a lower load index may not carry the vehicle's weight safely. If you are unsure, a tire shop can look up the exact requirement for your vehicle.
Will different tires change my fuel economy?+
They can. NHTSA estimates that a 10 percent reduction in tire rolling resistance improves vehicle fuel economy by 1 to 2 percent, and a significant diameter change shifts your effective gearing. Also remember that a larger tire makes the odometer under-count miles, which makes calculated MPG read low until you correct for the change. Use the MPG Calculator to measure the real effect over a few tanks.
Sources & further reading
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